Usually a failed RTD temperature sensor feeding bad data to the control board, a weakened bake element, or a hot surface igniter that no longer draws enough current to open the safety gas valve. We ohm-test the sensor and igniter rather than replacing parts on a hunch.
Usually a failed RTD temperature sensor feeding bad data to the control board, a weakened bake element, or a hot surface igniter that no longer draws enough current to open the safety gas valve. We ohm-test the sensor and igniter rather than replacing parts on a hunch.
The spark is arriving but gas is not. Clogged burner ports, a saturated or misaligned electrode, a failed spark module, or a valve that is not opening. We clean, test, and replace only the component that actually failed.
Almost always moisture in the burner cap or a shorted switch inside the spark module telling the system a burner is still calling for ignition. Left alone, it wears the module out. We dry, reseat, and replace the faulty switch.
A thermal cutout or high-limit thermostat is tripping, often because the cooling fan has stalled or the oven is genuinely overheating from a stuck relay. We find the root cause instead of resetting the breaker and calling it fixed.
The classic F1 scenario. The latch motor must complete its full travel and confirm both lock and unlock switches within sixty seconds. When the motor wears, the door stays shut. We replace the latch assembly with an OEM unit.
Calibration drift, a partially failed bake or broil element, a convection fan that is not circulating properly, or a door gasket letting heat escape. San Francisco coastal humidity accelerates gasket wear more than most owners expect.
Worn fan motor bearings, a loose or warped blade contacting the shroud, or debris that dropped in during a self-clean cycle. Caught early, this is a straightforward motor swap. Ignored, it can take the control board with it.
F1 for door latch or board communication, F3 and F4 for RTD sensor open and shorted circuits, OPP for a dual-fuel oven blocked by a self-clean cycle, OE for a shorted relay board, and COMM ERR on L Series. A breaker reset for sixty seconds clears temporary glitches. Anything that returns needs certified diagnosis.