If your Bosch dishwasher just flashed a code and stopped mid-cycle, the good news is that the machine has already done the diagnostic work for you. The control board runs continuous checks on the heating element, drain pump, water inlet valve, flow meter, flood sensor, and door latch, and the moment something drifts out of spec, it displays a fault code pointing straight at the problem.
Bosch uses two code systems. Older 300, 500, Ascenta, and SHE-prefix models show 2-digit E-codes (E01 through E27). Newer Series 6, Series 8, Benchmark, and HomeConnect models show 4-digit codes (E0100 through E9240). Both describe the same faults, so E15 on an older machine and E3100 on a newer one both mean water has reached the leak-protection tray.
This guide pairs every 2-digit code with its 4-digit equivalent, explains what each one means, and gives you a real fix. Codes marked technician-level involve the control board, power module, or sealed drying components where DIY repair risks making things worse.
The Most Common Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes (And How to Fix Them)
The five you are most likely to see are E15 (leak), E24 and E25 (drainage), E22 (filter), E09 (heating), and E01 (control board). Three of those five you can fix yourself in under 30 minutes.
Error Codes E15 & E3100
Meaning: Water has reached the base tray and triggered the Aquastop flood sensor. The dishwasher locks out until the sensor dries.
Solution: Shut off the water valve under your sink right now. Pull the unit out and remove the side panels to find the leak. Check the inlet hose, door seal, sump clamps, and heat exchanger. To clear the code, tilt the dishwasher back 45 degrees and drain the base tray. That resets the float, but it will not stop the leak. Fix the source first, or E15 comes straight back. Replace the inlet valve if it drips.
Error Codes E01, E0100 & E6101
Meaning: Heat pump motor circuit fault or power module failure on the main control board. On HomeConnect models, E6101 points to the drain and pump control circuit.
Solution: Trip the breaker for a full 5 minutes so the board capacitors discharge completely. Thirty seconds is not enough here. If the code comes back, test your drain pump with a multimeter before you call anyone, because a failed pump sometimes throws a false E01. If the pump checks out fine, the power module or control board needs replacing, and that is a technician job.
Error Codes E02, E03, E0103 & E0107
Meaning: Control board relay fault. E02 is usually the primary heater relay, E03 the auxiliary relay. Bosch groups all four codes as the same failure family.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 5 minutes. If the code clears and stays gone, you had a transient fault and nothing more. If it returns, the relay is fused open and the whole board needs replacing. Before you order one, check that water is actually filling the tub, because a dead inlet valve triggers E03 on some models and a valve costs a fraction of a board.
Error Codes E04 & E0105
Meaning: Faulty heater electronics detected during self-test. On some models, it means a flow sensor error caused by excess suds in the tub.
Solution: Open the door and look for foam. If you see suds, run two or three empty rinse cycles with no detergent to purge them, then switch to proper dishwasher detergent at the correct dose. Hand soap and overfilled powder are the usual culprits. No suds? Run a test cycle and measure heater current. Around 11 amps is healthy. Under 2 amps means the heater or board has failed.
Error Codes E05 & E0106
Meaning: Overfill detected. The float switch or water level pressure sensor is stuck or misreading, so the dishwasher fills past its safe limit.
Solution: Trip the breaker for 5 minutes. Then pull the bottom rack and find the float cup, the small plastic dome inside the tub near the front. Lift it and make sure it moves freely. Clean out any debris or grease underneath, since a stuck float is the most common cause. If the code returns after that, replace the float switch or the pressure sensor.
Error Codes E06 & E8000
Meaning: Door lock or door sensor circuit fault. The board is not getting confirmation that the door is properly shut.
Solution: Push the door firmly closed and listen for the latch click. If the hook misses, realign it or replace the latch assembly when the strike plate is bent. Unplug the unit and check the wiring harness between door switch and control board for corrosion or breaks. Test the switch terminals for continuity with a multimeter. No continuity with the door closed means you need a new switch assembly.
Error Codes E07 & E2130
Meaning: Fan or drying system fault. On 500 series and above with Zeolite Crystal Dry, E2130 specifically means the Zeolite fan motor has failed.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds first. If the code sticks, the drying fan or Zeolite module is done. The Zeolite compartment is sealed and sits behind the outer cabinet, so this one goes to a Bosch technician. In the meantime, you can keep washing normally; just skip the heated dry option and open the door at cycle end to air dry your dishes.
Error Code E08
Meaning: Low water level in the sump. The heater and pump cannot run safely without enough water.
Solution: Check that the supply valve under your sink is fully open, since a half-turned valve causes this constantly. Straighten any kinks in the inlet hose. Disconnect the hose and pull out the small mesh inlet screen where it meets the dishwasher, then soak it in vinegar to strip calcium buildup. If the supply and screen are both clear, the water inlet valve is not opening and needs replacing.
Error Code E09
Meaning: Heating element failure. Either the element burned out, the board stopped sending it power, or a dirty salt sensor is sending bad readings.
Solution: Unplug the machine and test the heating element with a multimeter. A working element reads 10 to 40 ohms. Infinite resistance means it is dead, so replace it. Also rinse the salt sensor in the reservoir with warm water to clear salt crust, which throws false E09 readings. If the element tests fine and the sensor is clean, the board heater relay has failed.
Error Code E11
Meaning. Temperature sensor or NTC thermistor fault. The sensor reporting water temperature to the board is reading out of range.
Solution. Reset the dishwasher first, since this one is often transient. If it returns, unplug the unit and find the temperature sensor at the base of the tub beside the heating element. Test it with a multimeter. You want roughly 50k ohms at room temperature, dropping as water heats. If the reading is stuck, infinite, or wildly off, replace the thermistor and the code clears.
Error Codes E12 & E2060
Meaning: Limescale buildup has hit the point where performance suffers. This is a maintenance reminder, not a broken part.
Solution: Pour Bosch descaler into an empty dishwasher and run a hot cycle with no detergent and no dishes. Citric acid on the intensive cycle works too if you prefer. If your model has a softener reservoir, top it up with Bosch softening salt, never table salt. Living in a hard-water area above 150 mg/L? Descale every one to three months, and E12 stops coming back.
Error Code E13
Meaning: Hot water inlet temperature is too high, above 75°C or 167°F. That risks warping plastic parts and kills the enzymes in your detergent.
Solution: Turn your home water heater thermostat down to 60°C or 140°F. That fixes it in most cases and saves energy too. If your dishwasher is plumbed into the hot line, consider switching it to the cold supply instead. Modern Bosch machines heat their own water more efficiently and more precisely than your water heater delivers it, so you lose nothing by making the swap.
Error Code E14
Meaning: Water flow meter fault. The sensor measuring how much water enters the tub is not registering properly. Newer models show this as E3000.
Solution: Hold Start for 5 seconds to reset, then run a cycle and see if it returns. If it does, unplug the machine and access the flow meter, which sits between the inlet valve and the tub. Test it with a multimeter for continuity. Mineral scale clogs these sensors often in hard-water homes, so check for buildup first. Replace the flow meter if it fails the test.
Error Codes E16, E17, E3300 & E3400
Meaning: Water inlet fault or overfill. Either the inlet valve is stuck open or the fill hose is kinked, restricted, or damaged.
Solution: Turn off water and power. Run your hand along the full length of the fill hose, checking for bends, kinks, and cracks. Disconnect it and flush it under a tap to clear debris. Pull the inlet valve screen and soak it in vinegar if it is scaled up. If hose and screen are both clear, your inlet valve is stuck open or leaking through and needs replacing.
Error Codes E18 & E3200
Meaning: The dishwasher is not filling to the right level in time. Bosch specifies an incoming flow rate of at least 10 liters per minute.
Solution: Check that the supply valve under your sink is fully open. A partially closed valve causes this more than anything else. Straighten the inlet hose and clean the inlet screen. Then test your cold water pressure at the tap under the sink, because anything below 20 psi triggers E18 on its own. If pressure is good and the screen is clean, replace the inlet valve.
Error Codes E19 & E6900
Meaning: Detergent dispenser solenoid circuit fault. The solenoid that pops the detergent door open mid-cycle is not getting its signal.
Solution: Trip the breaker for 5 minutes. Then unplug the unit and inspect the wiring harness between the dispenser and the control board. Look for loose connectors, corrosion, and broken wires, then reseat everything firmly. If the code persists, the dispenser solenoid has failed, and the assembly needs replacing. On older models with a heat exchanger, a leaking outlet valve throws E19 instead.
Error Code E20
Meaning: Circulation pump fault or wiring issue. The main wash pump is not running or is drawing the wrong current.
Solution: Unplug the dishwasher and access the circulation pump under the tub. Check the impeller for debris and clear anything jammed in it. Inspect the wiring harness from the pump to the control board for chafing or burnt connectors. Test the motor windings with a multimeter, where 30 to 100 ohms is typical. If it fails the test or hums without spinning, replace the pump.
Error Code E21
Meaning: The circulation pump is mechanically blocked. Something solid is jammed in the impeller, usually glass, a fruit pit, or a toothpick.
Solution: Unplug the machine before you touch anything. Take out the bottom rack, lower spray arm, and filter assembly, then look down into the pump sump. Pull out any debris with pliers, and go slowly because broken glass is common here. Rotate the impeller by hand with a plastic tool to confirm it spins freely. Reassemble and run a short rinse cycle to verify.
Error Codes E22 & E9240
Meaning: The fine filter is blocked with food particles, grease, or biofilm, so water cannot drain through properly.
Solution: Pull out the bottom rack, then twist the filter cylinder a quarter turn counterclockwise and lift it out. Rinse it under warm running water and scrub with a soft brush and a little dish soap until the mesh is clear. Wipe the filter housing at the base of the tub. Reinstall and twist until it clicks fully home. Do this monthly, and E22 stops being a problem.
Error Codes E23 & E6103
Meaning: Drain pump fault. The motor is failing, or the non-return valve is stuck. On newer models, E6103 can also flag a heating system failure alongside it.
Solution: Unplug the machine. Remove the filter, then pry off the drain pump cover with a spoon until it clicks, and lift it out. Check the impeller for debris and spin it by hand. Test the pump motor with a multimeter; 100 to 300 ohms is typical, depending on the model. If the windings read open or the pump hums without moving water, fit a new drain pump.
Error Codes E24, E25 & E6102
Meaning: Drainage fault. The drain pump is blocked, the pump cover is loose, the drain hose is kinked, or the sink air gap is clogged. This is Bosch’s most reported error family.
Solution: Remove the bottom rack and filter. Pry off the drain pump cover with a spoon until it clicks, pull up until you feel resistance, then forward to remove it. Sponge out standing water and clear debris carefully, since sharp glass is common. Press the cover back until it clicks, because a loose cover alone causes E25. Then straighten the drain hose and clean the air gap.
Error Code E26
Meaning: Water diverter motor fault. The valve routing water between upper and lower spray arms has failed. You will notice one rack coming out dirty while the other is clean.
Solution: Do not attempt this one yourself. The diverter valve sits under the sump, so reaching it means laying the dishwasher on its back and dismantling the base assembly. Book a Bosch-certified technician. Before you call, run a cycle and note which rack is cleaning poorly, since that detail helps the technician confirm the diagnosis and bring the right part.
Error Codes E27 & E9001
Meaning: Low voltage supply. Power reaching the dishwasher is below spec, under 110V in North America or under 220V in Europe.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds. If the code returns, plug the dishwasher into a different circuit you know delivers full voltage and run a cycle. If it fails there too, the problem is your household supply, not the appliance. Call a licensed electrician to check incoming voltage and connections at the panel. Do not open the panel or test live circuits yourself.
Error Code E0110
Meaning: Communication fault on the main control board, usually between the board and the user interface panel.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds and see whether the panel responds normally afterward. If the code returns or the panel stays dead, this is a board-level fault with no DIY path. Call Bosch Customer Support on 1-800-944-2904. Have your full model and serial number ready from the tag inside the door frame, plus a photo of the code on the display.
Error Code E2030
Meaning: Drying system or end-of-cycle fan fault on newer models. It usually appears near the end of a cycle when dishes come out wet.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds and run a full cycle to see whether it repeats. If it does, the drying fan or one of its sensors has failed and needs technician diagnosis. Call Bosch Customer Support. Until it is repaired, you can keep using the dishwasher normally; just crack the door open at the end of each cycle so the dishes air dry.
Error Code E2120
Meaning: Internal control fault. Bosch does not publish a component-level cause for this code, which makes it a catch-all board error.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds and run a cycle. Many E2120 reports are one-off glitches that never come back. If it does return, there is nothing you can safely check yourself, so call Bosch Customer Support on 1-800-944-2904. Photograph the code, note exactly when in the cycle it appeared, and have your model and serial number ready.
Error Code E3000
Meaning: Generic water inlet system fault. Bosch publishes no specific cause, but the E3xxx family all relate to the water intake circuit.
Solution: Work through the same checks as E18 and E16 first. Open the supply valve fully, straighten the fill hose, and clean the inlet screen of scale. Those three fix most inlet faults regardless of which code shows. If everything checks out and E3000 persists, call Bosch Customer Support for diagnosis, since the fault is likely in the flow meter or board.
Error Codes E6001 & E6002
Meaning: Internal drain or pump-circuit fault. Bosch groups these as generic pump-system errors with no published component-level cause.
Solution: Reset the breaker for 30 seconds. Then do the full E24 and E25 drain cleanout, because a physically blocked pump triggers these codes on plenty of machines and it costs you nothing to check. Clear the filter, pump cover, drain hose, and air gap. If the code survives both the reset and the cleanout, call Bosch Customer Support for diagnosis.
Error Code E6160
Meaning: The Zone Control lower spray arm reference position could not be found. Zone Control directs extra pressure to one rack for heavier loads.
Solution: Open the door and spin the lower spray arm by hand. It should turn freely through a full rotation. Clear any fallen utensil or tall dish blocking it, then lift the arm off its spindle and reseat it firmly until it seats flat. Run a cycle to check. If the code returns with the arm spinning freely, the position sensor or arm motor needs technician replacement.
Water Tap Symbol and Non-Numeric Warnings
Meaning: The water tap icon means the dishwasher cannot detect adequate water supply, closely related to E16, E17, and E18. The salt icon means the softener reservoir needs refilling. The starburst icon means rinse aid is low. A key or padlock means child lock is on.
Solution: For the tap symbol, open the supply valve fully, straighten the fill hose, and clean the inlet screen. For the salt icon, refill with Bosch softening salt and never table salt, which corrodes the reservoir. For the rinse aid icon, top up the dispenser. For child lock, press and hold the key button for 3 to 5 seconds until the symbol disappears.
H01 Indicator (Delay Start)
Meaning: H01 is not an error. It means a delay start is programmed and the cycle begins in one hour. Bosch shows H02 through H24 for longer delays.
Solution: Press the Delay Start button repeatedly until the display cycles back to zero and the H clears. If that does not work, hold Start for 5 seconds, or hold Cancel/Drain for 5 seconds on models that have it. To stop triggering it by accident, keep your hand clear of the delay button while you are loading detergent and closing the door.
Blinking Light Patterns on Models Without a Digital Display
Meaning: Ascenta, older SHE-prefix, and some 300 series models show faults as blinking cycle LEDs instead of numbers. A red light projected on the floor means a leak. A flashing rinse LED means a heating fault. A repeating blink count maps directly to an E-code.
Solution: Count the blinks over 10 seconds and match the number to the E-code section above, so three blinks means E03. If you see a red light on the floor, stop immediately and shut off the water, because that is the E15 leak warning. Lost your manual? Search your exact model number from the tag inside the door frame plus the words blink code chart.
When to DIY and When to Call a Technician
Handle these yourself
- Cleaning the fine filter on E22 or E9240
- Clearing the drain pump, cover, and hose on E24, E25, or E6102
- Descaling the machine on E12 or E2060
- Checking the water valve, fill hose, and inlet screen on E18 or E3200
- Locating the leak and draining the base tray on E15
Call a Bosch-certified technician
- Any control board or power module code, including E01, E0100, E6101, E02, E03, and E0110
- Heater electronics faults on E04 or E0105 when suds are not the cause
- Zeolite drying system failures on E07 or E2130
- Circulation pump and water diverter faults on E20 or E26
- Any code that returns after you have already replaced the obvious part
Final Thought
Most Bosch error codes are the machine telling you something small went wrong before it became something expensive. A blocked filter, a kinked hose, a half closed supply valve, a float stuck under a spoonful of grease. Clear those and the code disappears, often in less time than it takes to load the machine.
What matters is knowing where the line sits. Filters, drain pumps, inlet screens and descaling are yours. Control boards, power modules, Zeolite drying units and the water diverter are not, and forcing them usually turns a one part repair into a two part repair. The other rule worth remembering is that a reset clears a code, not a cause. If E15 or E24 comes back after a reset, the fault is still sitting there waiting.
If you have already cleaned the filter, cleared the pump and reset the breaker and the code still shows, stop guessing and book a certified Bosch technician before the next cycle. Write down the exact code, note when in the cycle it appeared, and have your model and serial number ready from the tag inside the door frame. That one minute of prep is usually the difference between a same day fix and a second visit.